Thursday 23 September 2010

Around Rhodesia No. 2

Victoria Falls - Wankie National Park - Bulawayo - the Matopos

Cover Front

VICTORIA FALLS

Photo A

Rhodesia's Victoria Falls is one of the largest and most beautiful waterfalls in the world — and certainly the most accessible. Here the Zambezi River, the only major river in Africa to flow eastwards to the Indian Ocean, widens to 1 700 metres, and plunges into a vertical chasm across its complete width. This massive rent in the earth, carved out by thousands of years of water action, varies from 70 to 108 metres deep.

The force of the falling water — 545 million litres per minute during the flood season — sends spray clouds spinning high into the sky. These clouds of spray, which often reach over 500 metres high, give rise to the African name for the Victoria Falls — Mosi oa tunya, the smoke that thunders. The main picture opposite was taken during the dry season and was chosen for its unobscured view of the Falls.

Doctor Livingstone, on November 16, 1855, was the first white man to see this mighty cataract. His first view of the Falls, which he named after Queen Victoria, was an unusual one, for he was canoed down river to a large island on the lip of the chasm (now named Livingstone Island, and the large island in the centre of the main picture).

Today a large bronze statue of this great explorer and missionary gazes east along the line of the Falls with which he is so closely associated (inset A1).

The warlike Matabele became the overlords of the Africans who guided Livingstone to his vantage point, and the way of life they led in the nineteenth century may be seen in the Victoria Falls Craft Village (inset A3), where the home of a man and his three wives, complete with huts, furnishings and implements has been reconstructed. Associated with the village is a colony of African craftsmen who carve in stone, wood and bone, and a small weaving centre.

Displays of traditional African dancing at two of the hotels also provide the visitor with a glimpse of the African past (inset A4).

Livingstone walked thousands of kilometres to gain his sight of the Victoria Falls. Today's visitor may drive to the area on modern highways, travel by train in a sleeping compartment, or fly in on Air Rhodesia's daily scheduled services, which link the Falls with other tourist centres in Rhodesia, as well as Johannesburg in South Africa.

Where Livingstone camped in a tent, today's tourist may choose from a range of five hotels (inset A2), stay in serviced chalets in the village or fully-equipped cottages in the national park, camp in a centrally situated site, or park in a luxury caravan site on the bank of the Zambezi River.

Amusements in the evening may include a visit to one of the two casinos (inset A5).

All this is a far cry from the Victoria Falls Livingstone knew — but although development has taken place to cater for the visitor's comfort and convenience, the area of the Falls themselves has remained virtually untouched. No commercialisation has been allowed to intrude on the spectator's appreciation of this unique natural wonder.

Photobucket

The Victoria Falls, in its entirety, is 1 700 metres wide, and comprises five distinct waterfalls. From the west, the visitor first sees the great plunge of the Devil's Cataract ( picture,B), a 30-metre-wide, 70-metre fall that has eroded the rock 10 metres below the average fall line. From a viewpoint overlooking the Devil's Cataract the visitor may look along the gorge, with the Rain Forest on the right (inset 1). Next are the 93-metre-high Main Falls (cover) where the major flow of water over the Victoria Falls occurs.

To the east of the Main Falls is Livingstone Island. A narrow, slightly crescent-shaped falls, named Horseshoe Falls, is seen next, passing into the highest of all the cataracts, the 108-metre-high Rainbow Falls (inset B2). On the eastern end of the Falls is the 101-metre-hiah Eastern Cataract.

The highest point of the Victoria Falls occurs almost opposite the narrow gap through which the entire flow of the Zambezi River escapes into the Boiling Pot, passing under the railway and road bridge, 102 metres above the water, into the deep, zigzagging gorges beyond (inset B3).

The visitor may enjoy near and obscured views of all these distinct waterfalls from a network of paths which lead along the opposite bank of the gorge into which the Zambezi River plunges. Due to the constant showers falling from the spray clouds, much of this area is covered by a dense and luxuriant Rain Forest.

For an overall view of the Victoria Falls, such as that shown on the previous page, air-trips in twin-engine aircraft are operated (inset B4) from an airfield on the outskirts of the village. The company also operates game-viewing flights up the Zambezi River above the Falls.

Apart from the Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River, there is much for the visitor to see in the surrounding area. In the nearby 56 000 hectare Victoria Falls National Park there is a wide variety of animal and bird life, and the area is noted for its large numbers of stately sable antelope ( picture C).

Photo C

There are also many curio shops, each one carrying a variety of products to suit every taste and pocket (inset C5). At the Crocodile Ranch the visitor may see over 2 000 live reptiles, from those only 50 cm in length, to some 4,5 metres long (inset C6).

The Zambezi River is 2 800 km long, and the Victoria Falls occurs 1 300 km from its source in the Central African Highlands and 1 500 km from its delta at Quelimane on the Indian Ocean. This great body of permanently flowing water encourages the growth of rich riverine forest along its banks, and on his journey downstream to the Falls, Livingstone was so struck by its beauty that he forsook his normal dour phraseology and wrote in his daily journal: "Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight".

Photo D

Today, the visitor to the Victoria Falls may also share this experience, for daily cruises by comfortable river-boats (inset D1) are operated on the wide river some kilometres above the Falls. Often elephant and other animals are seen coming to the river to drink, particularly near the national parks cottages, and occasionally hippo (inset D2) are seen in the river itself. One of the most popular cruises is held near sunset, when the unforgettable sight of an African sun shedding its colours on the waters and the western sky (main picture, above) is a wonderful climax to a day of sightseeing. For the fisherman (inset D3), the river abounds in the long-toothed tiger-fish, succulent tilapia, giant vundu and many other species. Licences are not required.

WANKIE NATIONAL PARK

Photo E

Wankie National Park is a place — and an experience. Within its 14 620-square- kilometres of unspoiled wilderness the protected wild life and natural vegetation reflect the diversity and interdependence of nature that has long disappeared from the manipulated environment in which the mass of humanity lives today.

Here the receptive visitor will find an opportunity to throw off the routine of his man-centred world and become a spectator.

For many the sight of zebra caught in the light of an afternoon sun (picture E) will be the highlight of their visit. For others, it will be watching a herd of elephant at close quarters from the safety of one of the game-viewing platforms erected at some of the principal water-holes (inset E2).

The visitor will find that by and large the wild life will ignore him or, at most, find him a temporary irritant if he intrudes too far into their world — then the elephant will trumpet at him, or make a fearsome mock charge, while the smaller animals will melt away into the surrounding bush.

Although for most visitors to Wankie the greatest attraction is the variety of wild life that may be seen, the wide range of plant life forms a splendid backdrop to any scene — from the teak forests in the southern part of the park to the thin shade of the mopani forests in the central and northern areas.

While Wankie remains wild and untouched, the needs of the modern visitor have been catered for and he may reach the park on wide, modern highways, or even by daily Air Rhodesia scheduled services to the park's own airport (inset E1).

There are 107 species of animals — from the elephant to the shrew— and 401 species of birds in Wankie National Park. Yet the visitor who proceeds through the park with a checklist and a pencil will not gain the enjoyment or the lasting memories of the person who waits and watches.

An elephant is an elephant to the first visitor, but to the second it is a member of a family group, the behaviour of which is fascinating as they take their turn at the water-hole, waiting until a previous herd has left before drinking and wallowing to cover their skins with mud as a protection against biting insects (main picture G). Even the crocodile (inset F 2) vacates the water when a large herd arrives.

Photo F

Among the other larger species to be seen are buffalo (main picture, left), while there are numerous species of antelope, of which the impala (inset F 4) are among the most appealing and widespread.

Photo G

Although lion are numerous in the national park (inset G 6), they are more frequently seen in the northern areas, near Robins Camp.

Bird life is also prolific in Wankie, and among the colourful species which may be seen are the yellow hornbill and glossy starling (inset F 3), particularly within the camps themselves. Although Wankie relies for its appeal on remaining an unspoiled and undeveloped wild life area, accommodation for the visitor is comfortable and in keeping with the natural surroundings (inset F 1).

Within the park are three camps — Main, Sinamatella, and Robins — all providing serviced accommodation, caravan and camping facilities, and liquor-licensed restaurants. From these camps networks of game-viewing roads connect with a central road system on which the visitor may travel through the park from camp to camp (although cars towing caravans are not permitted to travel within the park).

Main Camp is situated within a few kilometres of the Wankie National Park airport; Sinamatella is built on a plateau commanding views of the surrounding plains; and Robins is the most northerly camp in the park.

Near Main Camp, and just outside the national park, is a luxury hotel, and even here wild animals come to drink at a waterhole overlooked by its extensive grounds (inset G 5).

The species of game more likely to be seen in the areas surrounding Wankie's three camps are:

Main Camp — zebra, giraffe, kudu, elephant, steenbok, warthog, buffalo, wildebeest, sable, lion, black-backed jackal, hyena, bat-eared fox.

Sinamatella — impala, kudu, elephant, warthog, giraffe, hippo, klipspringer, hyena, lion, leopard.

Robins — impala, waterbuck, buffalo, kudu, elephant, giraffe, sable, roan, reedbuck, lion, hyena, side-striped jackal, cheetah, tsessebe.

The reason for the abundance of certain species in particular areas depends on the living requirements of the species concerned, and how the plant life of the area satisfies their needs.

Photo H

The visitor, intent on photography, would do well to remember that sudden movement is an alarm signal to wild animals and that any approach should be slow and gradual. This applies particularly to the skittish wildebeest (inset H 2). Visitors should also remember that animals see humans first, especially when they enjoy the lofty view of a giraffe (main picture, above).

A new development in accommodation is the creation of bush camps where, far from the normal visitor's route, facilities for single groups of up to 12 people are provided. From these camps visitors may explore the surrounding area and game view on foot (inset H1).

Foot safaris are also operated from the hotel near Main Camp seen in the areas surrounding Wankie's three camps are:

Main Camp — zebra, giraffe, kudu, elephant, steenbok, warthog, buffalo, wildebeest, sable, lion, black-backed jackal, hyena, bat-eared fox.

Sinamatella — impala, kudu, elephant, warthog, giraffe, hippo, klipspringer, hyena, lion, leopard.

Robins — impala, waterbuck, buffalo, kudu, elephant, giraffe, sable, roan, reedbuck, lion, hyena, side-striped jackal, cheetah, tsessebe.

The reason for the abundance of certain species in particular areas depends on the living requirements of the species concerned, and how the plant life of the area satisfies their needs.

The visitor, intent on photography, would do well to remember that sudden movement is an alarm signal to wild animals and that any approach should be slow and gradual. This applies particularly to the skittish wildebeest (inset H 2). Visitors should also remember that animals see humans first, especially when they enjoy the lofty view of a giraffe (main H picture, above).

A new development in accommodation is the creation of bush camps where, far from the normal visitor's route, facilities for single groups of up to 12 people are provided. From these camps visitors may explore the surrounding area and game view on foot (inset H1).

Foot safaris are also operated from the hotel near Main Camp.

CITY OF BULAWAYO

Photo 1

Bulawayo is Rhodesia's second-largest city and one of the country's major commercial and industrial centres (main picture I). It was founded in 1894, on the site of the kraal of Lobengula, the last of the Matabele kings.

In Rhodesia's early days, Bulawayo was its principal centre, and was visited many times by Cecil John Rhodes. There are in and around the city numerous historical sites associated with the country's founder, and in the main street is a bronze of Rhodes (inset I 1), which it is claimed was the only statue for which he actually posed. Characteristically, he faces north.

In 80 years Bulawayo has expanded and grown into one of Rhodesia's most attractive cities. Its wide tree-lined streets and avenues, and pleasant mixture of early Rhodesian and modern architecture give it a unique character.

Rhodes's original rondavel (inset I 2) which still stands in the gardens of Government House, is a link with the past, while imaginative modern structures such as the National Museum (inset I 3) are typical of Bulawayo today. Situated in Centenary Park, within walking distance of the city centre, the museum's modern galleries display one of the world's largest collections of Rhodes memorabilia, as well as collections reflecting the country's wild life and geology.

Adjacent to the museum is an exhibition of mining antiquaria. Also within Centenary Park is a small game park, aviary and miniature steam railway.

As capital of the province of Matabeleland, the city provides the visitor with a range of amenities (theatre, night-clubs, restaurants, cinemas, and shops) and a choice of accommodation (24 hotels and boarding houses) that one would expect of a city of 340 000 people.

The sporting scene is also a vigorous one, with fortnightly horse-racing at the Ascot racecourse, three kilometres from the city centre. Golf and bowls clubs welcome visitors and the standards of courses and greens is high. Club sport takes place every weekend, and rugby and cricket can be enjoyed during their seasons. The municipal swimming pool is of Olympic size, and is set within Centenary Park, within a few minutes' walk of the central hotels and caravan park.

Bulawayo is also a centre for communication by air, rail and road to the remainder of Rhodesia.

Photo J

Bulawayo is particularly well provided with attractive park lands in which the visitor may relax, from the formal gardens of Centenary Park and Central Park, with its giant fountain (main picture, J) to the unspoiled woodland at Hillside Dam, a few kilometres from the city (main picture K).

One of Southern Africa's finest caravan parks (inset 4) is situated within Central Park where a 3,2 hectare site offers shady and open sites.

There is much for the visitor to see within the city. The City Hall (inset 1) stands on the site of the 1896 laager and houses many items of historical interest.

At the Mzilikazi Arts & Crafts Centre Onset 2), ceramic sculpture, pottery and crockery of a high artistic standard is created and sold. The centre may be visited during the mornings (or afternoons by special arrangement). There are also well-stocked curio shops in the city.

The Rhodesia Railways Museum houses engines (inset K 3), rolling stock and exhibits dating back to the earliest days of the country's history, including Cecil Rhodes's personal Pullman Coach and a complete station building.

For the visitor who enjoys dining out, the city offers a choice of restaurants, from Chinese (inset J 5) to Italian and Spanish. Nor should the visitor miss the pleasure of a large Rhodesian steak.

Twenty-two kilometres west of Bulawayo are the stone walls of the Khami Ruins (inset 6). It is believed that these extensive remains date from the 17th century, and were inhabited by the Rozwi people until about 1820. A small museum displays relics found at the site.

Photo K

One of Southern Africa's finest caravan parks (inset K4) is situated within Central Park where a 3,2 hectare site offers shady and open sites.

There is much for the visitor to see within the city. The City Hall (inset K 1) stands on the site of the 1896 laager and houses many items of historical interest.

At the Mzilikazi Arts & Crafts Centre Onset K 2), ceramic sculpture, pottery and crockery of a high artistic standard is created and sold. The centre may be

visited during the mornings (or afternoons by special arrangement). There are also well-stocked curio shops in the city.

The Rhodesia Railways Museum houses engines (inset K 3), rolling stock and exhibits dating back to the earliest days of the country's history, including Cecil Rhodes's personal Pullman Coach and a complete station building.

For the visitor who enjoys dining out, the city offers a choice of restaurants, from Chinese (inset J 5) to Italian and Spanish. Nor should the visitor miss the pleasure of a large Rhodesian steak.

Twenty-two kilometres west of Bulawayo are the stone walls of the Khami Ruins (inset K 6). It is believed that these extensive remains date from the 17th century, and were inhabited by the Rozwi people until about 1820. A small museum displays relics found at the site.

THE MATOPOS

Photo L

The Matopo Hills are unique. Lying 30 kilometres south of Bulawayo and covering about 2 000 square kilometres, this is an area of wind-sculptured granite hills alternating with cool green wooded valleys. It has been a place of retreat for centuries — for the bushman, who left a legacy of painted caves (inset L 1); for the Matabele, who fought a fierce rebellion here; and for the visitor who travels through its hills discovering its beauty and peacefulness.

70 square kilometres have been set aside as the Rhodes Matopos National Park, an area reserved for recreation, relaxation, and the conservation of its rich flora and fauna.

Cecil Rhodes loved this part of Rhodesia, perhaps because its contrasts matched the mixed character of this remarkable man. He chose his own burial place among giant boulders on the crest of a bare granite hill (main picture, L above). Also situated on this hill are the massive monument to the Allan Wilson Patrol (foreground picture L) and the graves of other early leaders.

Photo M

On the shores of artificial lakes, National Park lodges, camping and caravan sites have been created (main picture, M lower right), and an extensive game park houses a wide variety of animals, including the white, or square-lipped, rhino (main picture M upper right). Other holiday accommodation is also available in the Matopos area.

A network of roads leads the visitor through this beautiful area, passing near massive, balancing rock formations (inset L2). These formations are that haunt of the dassie (rock rabbit) and the agile klipspringer, and in their most inaccessible heights the black eagles nest

On the return journey to Bulawayo the beautifully decorated Cyrene Mission Church (inset M3) may be visited. The interior and exterior walls of this small building are covered with colourful paintings executed by pupils of the mission school.

Cover Back
Back Cover of the booklet

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

Local detailed information on the areas described in this brochure is provided by publicity associations. Enquiries relating to hotels, shopping facilities, banking and other services should be addressed to these associations, which maintain information bureaux.

Victoria Falls area: Victoria Falls Publicity Association, P.O. Box 97, Victoria Falls. Information Bureau: Parkway, Victoria Falls, phone 202.

Bulawayo and Matopos: Bulawayo and District Publicity Association, P.O. Box 861, Bulawayo. Information Bureau: Post
Office Building, Main Street, Bulawayo, phone 60867.

Wankie National Park: There is no publicity association for this area, but further information may be obtained from the
Department of National Parks & Wildlife Management's Central Booking Office, P.O. Box 8151, Causeway, Salisbury; Africa House, 100 Stanley Ave., Salisbury, phone 706077.

For information, maps and brochures on other parts of Rhodesia, enquiries should be made to the Rhodesia National Tourist Board, P.O. Box 8052, Causeway, Salisbury, Rhodesia, phone 706511. The Board also maintains offices in:

Johannesburg: Tower Mall Upper, Carlton Centre, Commissioner Street, phone 21-1541.

Durban: 315 Smith Street, Durban Club Place, Durban 2901, phone 323671.

Cape Town: 2219 Trust Bank Centre, cnr. Adderley and Riebeeck streets, phone 41-2774.

RHODESIA CALLS (PVT.) LTD. REPRINTED FROM RHODESIA CALLS BY MARDON PRINTERS, SALISBURY, FOR THE RHODESIA NATIONAL
TOURIST BOARD.

End of Article

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Diarmid Smith. Thanks Diarmid

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.
Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail me on orafs11@gmail.com

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